When viewing Italy through the lens of natural wine, it’s easy to develop some short-sighted notions. Until recently, I believed that the best natural Italian white wines were macerated (which, save for a few exceptions, is still mostly true in my mind). And I also believed that Paolo Bea was the only producer in Umbria with a masterful grip on natural winemaking. Then I came across the wines of Collecapretta. This 8 hectare farm in the tiny Umbrian hamlet Terzo la Pieve is creating some of the most anomalous expressions of Sangiovese and other central Italian varieties that we’ve come across. Only half of the farm’s 8 hectares are under vine, the rest is planted to a mixture of olive trees, farro and other grains. Winemaker Vittorio Mattioli lets all the wines undergo natural fermentation in large, open-top containers without the use of added yeast or temperature control. Elevage is done in large glass-lined cement tanks, lending the wines freshness and verve, and in a nod to Biodynamics, bottling is done closely in relation to the lunar cycle. These wines are truly remarkable and production is minuscule. We received very little, so act fast before we drink it all! Quinn Kimsey-White
2014 Lautizio: 100% Cilieglio. A variety historically blended into Chianti to add freshness, Cilieglio is frequently bottled on it’s own in Umbria. This bright, floral, kaleidoscopic quaffer is best treated as a rosé. Serve chilled and drink fast. $36
NV il Rosso da Tavola: 90% Sangiovese, 10% Cilieglio. A nuanced and lifted expression of Sangiovese, this wine is a great introduction to the magic they are capable of bringing out of the variety. Tight-rope balance of rusticity and elegance that bursts with dried rose petals, chunky minerals, and chewy red fruit. $36
2012 Le Cese: 100% Sangiovese. More muscular and extracted than the Rosso da Tavola. Wild herbs, driving acidity, and brambly dark cherry fruit. Sangiovese at it purest. $42
2011 il Forestiero: 100% Sagrantino. An 8-10 day maceration (as opposed to the typical 40-65) makes for a less tannic, more forthcoming expression of Sagrantino. Dense, sappy black fruit and silky tannin. Take pleasure in drinking now, or throw in the cellar. 2 rows of vines. 426 bottles produced. $65
$10 to taste all four wines.
If you can’t make it to the tasting, but are interested in purchasing the wines, please contact the shop. We now ship all over the United States. Email firstname.lastname@example.org. We’ll set you up.